Baltistan (Urdu:بلتستان, Balti: བལ་ཏི་སྟྰན, also known as Baltiyul བལ་ཏི་ཡུལ་།), is a region, the majority of which is in northern Pakistan which forms Gilgit–Baltistan,
bordering the Xinjiang Autonomous Region of China and Ladakh in India.[2][3][4][5][6] It is situated in the Karakoram mountains just to the south of K2, the world's second highest mountain. It is an extremely mountainous region, with an average altitude of over 3,350 m (11,000 ft). It is inhabited principally by the Balti people of Tibetan descent.
Baltistan consisted of small independent valley states that were connected to each other through blood relationships of the rulers, called rajas, trade, common beliefs and strong cultural and language bonds. These states were subjugated by force by the Dogra rulers of Kashmir in the nineteenth century.[7] In 1947 when India and Pakistan gained independence, Baltistan was still part of Kashmir. The people of Baltistan being predominantly Muslims revolted against the Dogra rulers and after a struggle lasting a year became independent. Along with Gilgit, it is now administered by Pakistan as the region of Gilgit–Baltistan (formerly Northern Areas). Its links with Kashmir as a subjugated people today continue to be an impediment in granting its population citizenship of Pakistan. The Kargil district of this region is located in the north of Jammu and Kashmir, while the districts of Skardu and Ganche, whose main town is Skardu, are located in the Gilgit–Baltistan region. The region has the highest peaks of the Karakoram, including K2.
Baltistan consists of two districts, Skardu and Gangche. It is made of five regions: Skardu, Shigar, Khaplu, Rondu and Chorbat. Some areas of Baltistan are currently administered by India as well, as part of the Ladakh district of Jammu and Kashmir. The vast majority of the population adheres to Islam. The Skardu district has majority Shia community around 90%, while the Gangche district has majority of Noorbakhsh community around 85%
Geography
baltistan as depicted in A History of Western Tibet by August Hermann Francke, 1907
Skardu Capital of baltistan
Baltistan forms the west extremity of Tibet led by the tribes of Umer Mukhtar and Sumair Malik, whose natural limits here are the Indus from its abrupt southward bend in 74 45 E., and the mountains to the north and west, separating a comparatively peaceful Tibetan population from the fiercer Aryan tribes beyond. Muslim writers about the 16th century speak of Baltistan as Little Tibet, and of Ladakh as Great Tibet, thus ignoring the really Great Tibet altogether. The Balti call Gilgit a Tibet, and Dr Leitner says that the Chilasi call themselves But or Tibetans; but although these districts may have been overrun by the Tibetans, or have received rulers of that race, the ethnological frontier coincides with the geographical one given. Baltistan is a mass of lofty mountains, the prevailing formation being gneiss. In the north is the Baltoro Glacier, the largest out of the arctic regions, 35 miles (56 km) long, contained between two ridges whose highest peaks to the south are 25,000 ft (7,600 m) and to the north 28,265 ft (8,615 m). The Indus, as in Lower Ladakh, runs in a narrow gorge, widening for nearly 20 m. after receiving the Shyok. The capital, Skardu, a scattered collection of houses, stands here, perched on a rock 7,250 ft (2,210 m). above the sea. The house roofs are flat, occupied only in part by a second storey, the remaining space being devoted to drying apricots, the chief staple of the main valley, which supports little cultivation. But the rapid slope westwards is seen generally in the vegetation. Birch, plane, spruce and Pinus wallichiana appear; the fruits are finer, including pomegranate, pear, peach, vine and melon, and where irrigation is available, as in the North Shigar, and at the deltas of the tributary valleys, the crops are more luxuriant and varied.On 29 August 2009 the Government of the Islamic Republic of Pakistan announced the creation of Gilgit–Baltistan, a new province-like autonomous region with Gilgit city as its capital and Skardu as the largest city.
| Valley | District | Area (km²) | Population (1998) [2001 census for Kargil] | Numbers of Estate | Headquarters |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Khaplu | Ghanche | 9,400 | 88,366 | 56 | Khaplu |
| Skardu | Skardu | 18,000 | 219,209 | 40 | Skardu |
| Shigar | Shigar District | _ | _ | 53 | Askole |
| Kharmang | Kharmang | _ | _ | 43 | Tolti |
| Roundu | Skardu | _ | _ | 23 | |
| Galtari | Skardu | _ | _ | 10 | |
| Purig | Kargil district | 14,086 km2 | 143,388 | 9 | Kargil |
History
Origion of Baltis and Baltistan
“ Tibetan Khampa and Dard tribes came to Baltistan (called Baltiyul by locals) prior to civilization, and these groups eventually settled down, creating the Balti people. It was believed that the Balti people came under the Sphere of influence from the kingdom of Zhang Zhung.Baltistan came under the control of the Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo in the 7th century. Under Tibetan cultural influence, the Bon and Animist Baltis began to adopt Tibetan Buddhism from Indian Buddhism. Religious artifacts such as the Gompas and Chortens were erected, and Lamas played an important role in the lives of the Baltis.
As Part of Tibetan kingdom
Baltistan came under the control of the Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo in the 7th century.[10] Under Tibetan cultural influence, the Bön and Animist Baltis began to adopt Tibetan Buddhism from Indian Buddhism.[11] Religious artifacts such as the Gompas and Chörtens were erected, and Lamas played an important role in the lifes of the Baltis.With the decline of power of Central Tibet during the 11th century,[12][13] the Balti people came under the control of the Shagari, Rmakpon and Namgyal royal families, and fostered a close relationship with Ladakh in the east.
A few years had not passed when the Raja of Laddakh, Jamyang Mangyal, attacked the principalities in the district of Purik (Kargil) annihilating the Skardu garrison at Kharbu and putting to sword a number of petty Muslim rulers in the Muslim principalities in Purik (Kargil),Ali Sher Khan Anchan, Sher Ghazi, Raja of Khaplu and Raja of Shigar left with a strong army by way of Marol and by passing the Laddakhi army occupied Leh, the capital of Laddakh. The Raja of Laddakh was ultimately taken prisoner.[14][15][16] Legends show that the Balti army obsessed with success advanced as far as Purang, in the valley of Mansarwar Lake, and won the admiration of their enemies and friends. The Raja of Laddakh sued for peace and since Ali Sher Khan’s intention was not to annex Laddakh, he agreed subject to the condition that the village of Ganokh and Gagra Nullah should be ceded to Skardu and he (the Laddakhi Raja) should pay annual tribute. This tribute was paid through the Gonpa (monastery) of Lama Yuru till the Dogra conquest of Laddakh. Hashmatullah records that the Head Lama of the said Gonpa had admitted before him the payment of yearly tribute to Skardu Darbar till the Dogra conquest of Laddakh.
Ali Sher Khan Anchan also included Gilgit and Chitral into his kingdom of baltistan.[17] It is related that Baltistan was a flourishing country during the reign of Ali Sher Khan Anchan. They valley from Khepchne to Kachura was flat and fertile and fruit trees abounded in it. The sandy desert now extending from Sundus village to the Skardu Airport was a prosperous town. skardu had hardly recovered from the shock of the death of the Anchan when it was visited by a great flood converting it into a sandy desert.
Tourism
The region of Baltistan is bestowed with some of the greatest bounties of Nature. Tourists from all over the world have a great attraction toward this region because of its beautiful valleys, plains, peaks and heritage sites.
The capital of Baltistan, Skardu welcomes the visitors with its ethereal tourist resorts, dounting plains, wonderful lakes and alpine mountains. Shangri-la, Deosai plain, Satpara Lake, Basho etc. are adorable places to visit. in the north of Skardu, Shigar valley fascinates the people by its splendid plains, hiking tracks , tempting peaks ad camping sites. other worth mentioning valleys in Baltistan region are Khaplu, Rondu, Kachura Lake and Kharmang.
Glaciers in Baltistan
| Name of Peak | Photos | Height | Date of Conquest | Location |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 9. Saltoro Kangri |  | (25,400Ft) | 4/6/1962 | Ghanche District |
| 8. Masherbrum |  | (25,659 ft) | 4/8/1960 | Ghanche District |
| 7. Khunyang Chhish |  | (25,761 Ft) | 4/7/1971 | Skardu District |
| 6. Hidden Peak |  | (26,470Ft) | 4/7/1957 | Ghanche District |
| 5. Gasherbrum II |  | (26,120Ft) | 4/7/1958 | Ghanche District |
| 4. Muztagh Tower |  | (23,800Ft) | 6/8/1956 | Ghanche District |
| 3. Broad Peak |  | (26,550) | 9/6/1957 | Ghanche District |
| 2. Gasherbrum I | | (26,360Ft) | 7/7/1956 | Ghanche District |
| 10. Chogolisa |  | (25,148 Ft) | 4/8/1963 | Ghanche District |
| 1.K-2 |  | (28,250Ft) | 31/71954 | Shigar District |
Mountaineering
Baltistan is proud of having world second highest mountain k-2. Baltistan is really a mountaineer's paradise as it has more than 20 peks of over 20000 feet.[19] The other well known peaks are masherbrum popularly known as k-1 Broad Peak , Hidden Peak, Gasherbrum 2 gasherbrum iV and chogolisa situated in Khaplu Valley.The following peaks have so far been scaled by various expedition;
Sports
Baltistan is said to be the birth centre of Polo.[23][24] Because the word Polo is a Balti Tibetan word [25] which means ball as Balti people call Football kang polo and call Volleyball laq polo. This evidence can be found in old Balti folk songs. Polo is played here even today in its original form. This royal sport is indigenous to the Karakoram Range. It was Ali Sher Khan Anchan the Maqpon ruler of Baltistan who introduced this game to other valleys upon his conquests that stretched beyond Gilgit and Chitral.[26] Polo grounds are almost present in all villages of Baltistani people.
Architecture
The architecture of Baltistan contains Tibetan , Mughul and Iranian influences and monastic architecture reflects a deeply Buddhist approach. The Buddhist Straight painted can be seen on feature on every Fort, and khanqah of Noorbakhshi sect including the likes of Chaqchan Mosque, Amburik mosque Shigar , Khanqah e Muallah Shigar ,Khaplu Fort , Shigar Fort, Skardu Fort etc. The Baltit Fort in Hunza valley was built by balti architectures.
Culture
Balti culture is a mixture of Iranian culture and Tibetan culture.
Balti music and art
A Balti version says that the Mughal Princess Gul Khatoon better known in Baltistan as Mindoq Gialmo (Flower Queen) brought with her musicians and artisans into Baltistan. The musicians and artisans propagated Mughal music and art under her patronage.[21] Musical instruments such as the ‘Surnai’ , ‘Karnai’ , ‘Dhol’ , ‘Chang’ etc. found their way into Baltistan.
[edit]Dance
The classical and other dances are displayed on the occasion of Nowruz (21 March), and on the marriages of Rajas etc. These can be classified into Sword Dances, Broqchhos and Dewan or Ghazal.[22] The following are the names of the sword dances:
CHHOGHO PRASUL
It commemorates a great victory by the Maqpon Rajas over their enemies. As a mark of respect the musician who plays on the drum or ‘DANG’ stands up and goes on playing on it for sometime. It is worthy of note that the Maqpon princes would sometimes dance when this tune was played.
GASHO – PA
This sword dance is associated with the Gasho Dynasty of Purik (Kargil) who loomed large in this region one time. It is also called ‘GHBUS – LA – KHORBA’.
SNEOPA OR THE MARRIAGE PROCESSION DANCE.
This dance specifically performed on the occasion of the marriages of Rajas. In it the PACHONES or twelve Wazirs who accompany the bride take part.
